How do you enter that Manila br frame of mind, that woven br mat of noodle house restaurants, br br that dawn of tapis tasting women, br that hankering of hourly hauntings? br Drive along Roxas Boulevard br br when the moon has just clocked br out of third shift and the sea horses br are returning to their feeding stables. br br Walk the afternoon trees of Taft Avenue br and talk to the mechanics of Sunday br medicine. Ask them for recipes br br to cure fire-retardant love. Bask br in the baying of mahogany dogs on Mabini br street and pass through the red br br wrought iron gates of Calle Remedios br where you'll find a house with capis windows br where Doña Inez waits to sew your skin.