Turning the 3d printer to change the filament is kind of a pain, so I made a way to spin it, and store filament and tools!\rbrSubscribe to my channel: \rbr\rbrMORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS\rbr\rbr\rbrGET MORE INFO ON THIS PROJECT:\rbr\rbr\rbrHERES WHAT YOULL NEED:\rbr - SawStop cabinet saw\rbr - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo\rbr - Grizzly G0555LANV Bandsaw\rbr - Grizzly Drill Press\rbr - Silicone spray\rbr - 12 lazy susan bearing\rbr - Pancake compressor brad nailer combo\rbr - Ultimaker 2 Extended 3D printer\rbr\rbrWant to support ILTMS? Get early viewing, exclusive content and more. \rbr\rbr\rbrBUY A SHIRT, STICKER, PENCILS and MORE!!\rbr\rbr\rbrFOLLOW:\rbr\rbr\rbr\rbr\rbrI used scrap plywood for this project, so it was a combination of 12, 34 plywood and MDF.\rbrI cut down three pieces to 14 34 squares, as this was a little larger than the footprint of my printer.\rbrI cut a couple of strips for the side panels. These were a little taller than the diameter of a filament roll.\rbrOn one of these pieces, I centered a filament roll and traced the inner circle.\rbrI made a mark at the far outside of the circle, and drew in a place for a 12 dowel hole.\rbrI lined the two pieces up and drilled a 12 hole through both.\rbrI sat the side pieces in place on the base and traced the edge. This shows me the safe area to drill holes. I did the same for the other square piece.\rbrOn both pieces, I drilled countersunk holes in the safe area.\rbrThe side pieces got glue on one side before being screwed to the bottom square.\rbrI mistakenly glued the top at this point too, but dont do that. Just screw it on.\rbrI tested the spacing with a roll of filament hanging on the dowel rod.\rbrI cut another scrap that fit within the open side of the box, toas a drawer front.\rbrTwo pieces were cut down toas the sides of the drawer. Their depth was about the depth of the box minus the diameter of the filament roll.\rbrI sat the side panel on the side of the box and pivoted it off the bottom front edge. I made a mark on the side panel where I wanted it to hit the box top.\rbrUsing a straight edge, I drew a line from my mark to the opposite top corner.\rbrWith both side pieces taped together, I cut along my line on the bandsaw.\rbrI trimmed a piece, for the back, down to the same height as the back side of the side panels.\rbrSince I was out of plywood scrap, I cut the drawer bottom from MDF.\rbrI applied glue to all of the surfaces that would touch.\rbrI folded the pieces up into place and used some brad nails to hold everything in place while the glue dried.\rbrUsing a spacer (scrap), I marked the location for two hinges on the front, bottom edge.\rbrI predrilled holes for the hinges, and screwed them in.\rbrI held the drawer in place, upside down, to align and screw in the hinges.\rbrI flipped the drawer up into place. It was tighter than I wanted, but fit correctly.\rbrI sanded down the rough edges and the sides of the drawer where it touched the outer box.\rbrI applied some paste wax to the areas that touched which made the drawer move very smoothly!\rbrI 3d printed a quick knob (but any knob would work fine).\rbrUsing a very small bit, I drilled a hole right in the center of the drawer front.\rbrI ran a screw in from the back side directly into the back of the knob to hold it in place.\rbrI sat the printer in place, centered on the top of the box, and nailed on some small strips along the side of it, keeping them very snug to the printer.\rbrOn the base panel, I measured a lazy susan bearing, and found the difference in the bases width and the bearings diameter. I split the difference and marked in that distance from each edge.\rbr\rbrHaving these four marks allowed me to easily center the bearing on the base.\rbrThe two parts of the bearing got lined up so you could see a hole all of the way through. I marked these (4) holes onto the base.\rbrEach hole got drilled, with a countersink bit.\rbrI centered the bearing the same way on the bottom of the cabinet, but screwed it in place using the four inner holes.\rbrThe bearing comes un-lubricated, so I sprayed in a little silicone spray and worked it into the bearing.\rbrLaying the base on top of the bearing, I aligned the holes using a drill bit and my ice pick.\rbrI drove in screws, through the base, into the bearing holes. These are small holes made to be grabbed by sheet metal screws.\rbrI flipped the whole thing over and took it for a spin (pun intended).\rbrI was able to fit four rolls of filament on the 716 dowel.\rbrI added all of the 3d printing tools to the drawer and put it in place in my office.\rbrNow I can easily spin the machine to swap filaments! Second channel: bit.